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    HOME > 08 Mar 2008 Print Edition > Life > Spirits

    Scotch on the lochs
    The isle of Jura is no longer remembered as the place where George Orwell nearly drowned while writing 1984. Today, it is known world over for its eponymous scotch

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    Vikram Achanta

    Chief Executive Tulleeho

    It’
    s funny to think that I’m drinking a spirit that traces its origins back to ye olde management practice of downsizing. Back in the 16th century, Henry VIII dissolved monasteries all over England, thereby rendering over 10,000 monks jobless. Many of these retrenched monks wound their weary way to Scotland carrying with them the noble art of making whisky.

    Losing my job is the last thing on my mind as I stand on a wind-swept pier in the town of Craigshouse on the Isle of Jura. In my hand is a large dram of the Isle of Jura Crinan Boat Classic Commemorative Bottling Single Malt Whisky. Gazing at the Paps of Jura in the distance, I feel like I’m in a Jack Vettriano painting.

    "There is a certain pleasure in going to a place that takes some time to reach. Most places in Britain can be reached very easily, and quickly, with the result that there is no great sense of making a journey: it’s just too easy," says Alexander McCall Smith in his introduction to a book on Jura. I definitely would concur, having been on a red eye flight to Glasgow from Paris. I remember getting into the smallest plane I’ve been in, waiting to be flown to Islay. Our small group had literally commandeered the bunch of travellers. The captain was cheerily saying something about "waiting for some ground crew to turn up, before we take off," half conveying the impression that the ground crew were probably getting sloshed in the airport pub!

    After disembarking at Islay we boarded a coach that took us to Port Askaig on the East coast of the island. Next, we took a ferry to Feolin on the Isle of Jura and made our way to Craigshouse, the little town on the coast that is home to the Isle of Jura distillery.

    Jura as a place was not very well known other than for the fact that it was the place where someone called Eric Arthur Blair nearly drowned. Blair, it seems, was penning a book whose working title was The Last Man In Europe. Fortunately, he survived and completed the book, whose title he changed to 1984. Yes, Eric Blair was none other than George Orwell. However, I digress. The reason the little island is famous around the world today is something called Isle of Jura, a Single Malt distillery located in the town of Craigshouse—probably as remote a place as you can get in the British Isles.

    Immortalising Orwell

    In honour of the book, the Isle of Jura released a commemorative whisky edition called 1984. There is also a writer’s retreat programme run in conjunction with the Scottish Book Trust. It lets three lucky blokes spend time on the Isle of Jura while pretending to work on books (hey, I could do that!).

    Distillation on the Isle of Jura began in 1810 when the island’s owner set up a rudimentary distillery. The Malt whisky made in the early days had a peatier style mimicking Jura’s neigbhours on Islay: Lagavulin, Ardbeg, Laphroaig and more. The Small Isles Distillery as it was then known passed through a number of hands and even more Scottish feuds to the point where one owner removed all the equipment and stocks of whisky on the island.

    In the 1950s, a group of the estate owners of the island, determined to revitalise the island and create employment, got financial backing from Scottish and Newcastle Breweries to rebuild the distillery. The first Single Malt from the new distillery was released in 1974 with a major change in style being that whiskies were now "unpeated" and had more a Highland style than Islay. Ownership passed on to Invergordon distilleries, then to Whyte and Mackay, and finally to India’s UB Group.

    Peat is a term used to describe vegetative matter, which is found in abundance in Scotland. As much as a tenth of the country is believed to be covered with the stuff. The early part of the scotch whisky making process involves malting, where the malt (a term given to germinated barley) is dried over a fire. Many distilleries in Scotland dry the malt over a peat fire and hence give their whiskies a distinctive taste.

    Lots To Drink In

    The name Jura itself is believed to come from an old Norse word for deer, as the

    From The Jura Stable

    Isle of Jura 10: The Classic Island Malt

    Superstition: What better way to commemorate Scottish superstitions than to raise a toast to them!

    Isle of Jura 16: The Islander’s favourite

    21-year-old: Distilled in 1984 to commemorate the novel

    island is home to large herds of red deer. Hunting is also permitted and you can pay one of the estate owners to do so on their land. The fee: 450 pounds to kill a stag and 500 to kill a hind. If you’re not the hunting type, then there are more than 400 lochs on Islay, giving you the option of fishing in one every day! A coach ride around the island will also let you take in Jura’s breasts—the aforementioned three mountains that dominate the skyline. I did just that, and shot a few deer for good measure, albeit with my camera.

    Every year there is an Isle of Jura Fell Race, which begins and ends at the town of Craigshouse. Along the way, it traverses seven mountain summits, including the three paps of Jura. The current course record stands at 3 hours and 6 minutes, in an Englishman’s name, much to the dismay of the Scots!

    Prior to coming into Islay we had spent some time in Glasgow listening to Whyte and Mackay’s eloquent master distiller holding forth on the wonders of scotch whisky. We asked Richard Paterson if "finishes," the recent practice of maturing aged scotch whisky for a while in a sherry, port or bourbon cask, was meant to make up for deficiencies in the character of the base spirit. Richard was dismissive and said scotch had enough of a character of its own. That, combined with the amazing natural influences of Scotland, was more than enough to make it distinctive.

    Standing on that windy pier with the Jura mountains in the distance and a dram of the famous local scotch in my hand, I was inclined to agree with the learned gentleman. Slainte! (Slaandjivaa).   

    Vikram Achanta




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